Apparently Calvin Trillin is a fan of La Cumbre Taqueria in San Francisco. He tells columnist Leah Garchick about searching for a parking place in the Mission District in order to indulge. (It's been years since I ate at La Cumbre, but I remember it as a satisfying burrito, but not a life-changing experience. Possibly I ordered chile verde when I should have had carnitas, or vice versa.)